Wednesday, 26 October 2011

Hue to Da Nang to Hoi An





After the vibrancy of Ho Chi Minh City and the more austere and monumental Hue we took the train from Hue to Da Nang, to travel on to Hoi An.  The stretch between Da Nang and Hue is reportedly the most beautiful railroad stretch in Vietnam.  During the trip we passed mile after mile of beautiful white sandy beaches which were punctuated by the vision of evergreen jungle.  Hoi An offers a glimpse of life in Vietnam centuries ago.  With its beautiful riverside setting, romantic cafes, and miles of beach, Hoi An is an stunning little town.






Hoi An sits on a river, just a few kilometers from the beach and a forty minute drive from the city of Da Nang. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999, Hoi An is the only town of its kind in Vietnam that has survived intact for several hundred years. It was a major, international trading port 400 years ago. There is also archeological evidence of trading as far back as the 2nd century BC.







The miracle of Hoi An is that it survived through the chaos and destruction of World War II, the French Viet-Minh War, and the American War.  Hoi An is a tiny town and its architectural and despite the destruction of the wars its treasures fortunately survived intact.











Hoi An itself is impressive and picturesque, on the banks of a river with so many ambient features abounding.  It is easy to feel lost in time, meandering through the narrow, winding streets which are lined with traditional shops and houses.








People ride by on bicycles and share the narrow roadway with cyclos, the motor scooters and pedestrians.






The influence of the Chinese merchants who settled here is apparent in the architecture.  There is also the Japanese Bridge, dating from the 18th century, and other contributions from Japanese who moved into the town.







It is a delight Walking along the promenade that lines both sides of the river inlet.  The river is edged with magical fishing boats sitting in the water waiting for their next outing. There are elderly women, in long, thin, row boats, waiting for a tourists to take their magical mystery tour.  Of an evening the ladies are selling floating votive candles.  What a glorious scene.  This gorgeous young girl (Min) speaks minimal English but wanted to practice and each time she tried to think of the English word she would tap her head.  







Tra Que Herb Garden

Not too far out of Hoi An is the small village of Tra Que, where families have been growing and selling vegetables for around centuries.  There are rows of immaculate and brightly colored herbs and vegetables, all beautifully maintained by very old fashioned methods.  It was so quiet and peaceful at Tra Que, ambling through the plots. 



Gourmet Travelling

Hoi An is a food lovers delight.  The food here is abundant! People luxuriate in cafes along the street, drinking coffee, tea and eating.  Wandering through the atmospheric back lanes of Hoi An and along the river-front promenade stir the appetite.  The classic Hoi An specialties Cao Lau, Hoi An White Rose (Banh Bao Vac) and Hoanh Thanh (Won Tons)

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