Friday, 21 October 2011
Hue
Race around Vietnam - Up at 4:30am on a flight out of Saigon into Hue and 6 hours of temples, pagodas, people and Citadel - The cultural attache in fine form managed to pull of another moment to treasure as he knocks his steel chopstick flying from the second balcony of the restaurant (a foundation for the deaf) almost impaling a local one storey below. In response Mr Lyons posts to facebook Lost: Metallic chopstick accidentally dropped from 2nd floor of restaurant balcony balcony, Hue, Vietnam. May appear as bazaar 15cm piercing/body mod on local resident.
Hue is a fascinating city that was instrumental during the french occupation and the Vietnam War. Until 1945 Vietnam was ruled by many kings and their royal families. Hue was the royal headquarters and remained the capital of Vietnam until 1945 when it was moved to Hanoi. Much of Hue including the walled citadel and Imperial City were damaged during the wars with the french and Americans, however there are still some sites remaining and some have been restored. During our time in Hue we revisited the Citadel, pagoda and ancient tombs. Astonishing in their sheer magnitude. Along the way we also came across some ladies making incense.
Among my favourite sites is the heavenly Lady Pagoda on the banks of a river. This pagoda has monks, who were all busy mowing and whipper snippering the garden when we visited. There is a beautiful garden of potted bonsai trees and plants. According to legend, the people near this area used to see a vision of an old lady appearing on the hill where the pagoda now sits. Upon seeing people, she always said that someday a great leader would build a pagoda at this site to bring peace to the country. Lord Nguyen Hoang passed by this area, and upon hearing the story, he ordered the construction of the pagoda in 1601. He named it Chua Thien Mu - Heavenly Lady Pagoda. It is a curiosity in another way, in 1963 a monk drove his car from his temple into Saigon and doused himself with petrol then setting himself alight as a protests against the regime's violations against religious freedom. It was a well documented protest and one of the searing scenes of violent protest in our media during that contentious period.
Nina's Cafe Hue is a hidden gem that is a little hard to find but well worth it when you do. We were warmly greeted on arrival and treated to some of Hue's finest foods! The fish spring-rolls are simply divine, the stuffed squid equally stunning. Nina and her family are wonderful warm and welcoming. Nina told us of her family's background and some recent family events that made us admire her family all the more.
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